Congratulations on taking the first steps toward your American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) certification! Whether you’ve already registered for a course or are just diving into the research, this is an exciting moment in your climbing journey. Take a moment to envision the possibilities—this certification could open the door to a world of guiding and instructing opportunities.

Below, I’ve compiled some tips and resources to help you prepare for your SPI course. This guide isn’t exhaustive but is meant to supplement the information provided by your course provider, the AMGA website, and the SPI Program Handbook.

Essential Resources for the SPI Course

• AMGA SPI Program Page: Start here to understand the program’s goals and structure.

• SPI Program Handbook: Download and print the handbook. It’s packed with information, including the course syllabus, assessment details, and a gear list.

• AMGA Professional Membership: You’ll need to become a professional member before taking the course. Membership also grants access to exclusive content on the AMGA website.

• SPI Resume Template: Download this template and fill it out before the course. Most providers require a completed resume submission.

• AMGA SPI Manual: This yellow-and-black book is an invaluable resource. If your course doesn’t provide it, consider purchasing a copy ahead of time.

Meeting the Prerequisites

Before starting the course, ensure you meet these minimum requirements:

• Be at least 18 years old.

• Be an AMGA Professional Member.

• Have at least 12 months of climbing experience.

• Be an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience.

• Have led at least 15 traditional rock routes, placing protection.

• Be comfortable climbing 5.8 on top rope.

Meeting these prerequisites ensures you’ll get the most out of the course. If you’re not quite there yet, consider taking a Trad Leading Course to build your skills.

Pre-Course eLearning

AMGA requires eLearning modules to be completed before attending the course. These modules will take about three hours, so allocate enough time to work through them thoroughly instead of rushing at the last minute.

Skills to Brush Up On

Spend time practicing the following knots, hitches, and techniques:

Knots:

• Triple Overhand (barrel knot)

• Figure-8 follow-through and on a bight

• Overhand on a bight

• Bowline and bowline on a bight

• Double Fisherman’s

Hitches:

• Clove

• Munter

• Mule

• Munter-Mule-Overhand (MMO)

Friction Hitches:

• Autoblock

• Prusik

• Kleimheist

Other Techniques:

• Using Assisted Braking Devices (e.g., Petzl GriGri)

• Rappelling with an extension and backup

The more familiar you are with these skills, the more you’ll absorb during the course.

Tips for Success

1. Take Notes: Bring a notebook or use your phone to document key techniques and concepts. There’s a lot to cover in 27 hours of field time, and having a reference will help you review later.

2. Practice, Practice, Practice: Focus on your weaknesses—whether it’s trad leading, anchor building, or top-site management. The more confident you are in these areas, the more you’ll gain from the course.

3. Know Your Limits: If you’re not yet comfortable climbing 5.8 or placing gear, prioritize building these skills before attending the course.

Final Thoughts

The SPI course is designed to be a stepping stone in your climbing career, equipping you with the knowledge and skills to safely guide and instruct others. Whether your goal is to lead at single-pitch crags or prepare for an assessment, the effort you put into preparation will pay off in the field.

Ready to get started? If you’re interested in courses in Maine or beyond, feel free to reach out. I’d love to help you take the next step in your guiding journey!